THE BETSEY SOOK STANDARD: THE 4 C’S. Here is a peek into our selection processes, when working with diamonds of 0.5 carat and above. Our clients do not have to worry about this, we will take care of it for them.
COLOUR: Diamonds always need a crisp, clear, unapologetic whiteness, which is why, a Betsey Sook diamond comes in the best colour grades: “Colourless” or “Near Colourless”, ranging from D to H. Below H is not found in our atelier. Tiffany & Co. diamonds goes a bit lower, they accept the colour grade I, and highstreet diamonds typically have a considerably lower colour grade (K, L, M and down to Z). Natural colored diamonds get their colour from trace minerals (nitrogen makes yellow diamonds), boron makes blue diamonds) or from distortions in the crystal lattice (pink diamonds.)
The less colour, the more chemically pure.
CLARITY: All Betsey Sook diamonds are eye-clean. We ensure that none of our diamonds comes with unsightly inclusions or with flaws that could affect the diamond’s longevity and durability.
Clients need to know, though, that inclusions are a diamond’s birthmarks and part of the diamond’s natural formation process. They can not be completely avoided – unless the diamond is exceedingly rare and priced accordingly. Or synthetic, or a simulant.
When it comes to clarity, we recommend paying for quality and beauty, not necessarily for rarity, unless the budget is unlimited. We also factor in the carat size as well as the diamond’s shape, also known as its cut. A large diamond asks for a greater clarity grade. Round brillant-cut diamonds with their 57-58 facets are more forgiving, and certain fancy-cut diamonds (for example the emerald-cut diamond with its even, transparent surfaces) always need a fantastic clarity grade. It is our job to navigate through these parametres and pitfalls for our clients. We also take the actual jewellery design into consideration, as some inclusions will not affect the diamond’s beauty at all, once it is set in the jewellery piece. Other will.
CUT: We work with the top two cut grades, “Excellent” and “Very Good.” Cut affects the light return of the diamond, its whiteness, and how sparkly and bright it appears, when looked at in movement. It also describes to what extent the arrangement of facets is pleasing to the eye.
As our design aesthetic is delicate and demands a high level of precision, a poorly cut diamond would look misplaced in our jewellery. Uneven proportions and non-ideal symmetry would be better camouflaged in rustic jewellery, where visible inclusions and irregular cuts could even be a charming effect, albeit the fact that these diamonds are considerably less valuable.
Diamonds are sometimes cut in such a way that they retain carat weight without adding to the diamond’s proportional beauty. These diamonds can carry weight the wrong places and typically look smaller than they actually are. Our clients are ensured diamonds that look their carat size.
CARAT: We believe in quality over quantity. Bigger is not necessarily better. Every woman has her own ideal diamond size that fits her personality and body measurements. That – and the client’s budget – is the determining factor for the perfect carat size.
FLOURESCENCE: 35% of all diamonds on the market show fluorescence, which is a bluish tint under certain lighting conditions. God is in the detail, and in our world, absence of fluorescence makes a diamond more classically elegant. Fluorescence in Betsey Sook diamonds are kept to “None” or “Faint.”